A Taste of Gotland, Sweden’s magical island

By Malin Norman

The best time of year in Gotland, Sweden’s own paradise island, is on the horizon. Before long, the crowds will be gone, the pace will slow down, the sea will still be warm and some of the late summer sun will linger for a little longer. Many hotels and restaurants will still be open, and the island’s pantry will fill up with the autumn season’s harvest.

With its limestone landscapes, mile-long beaches and local culinary experiences, Gotland is a haven. In summer, the largest of Sweden’s islands is a hotspot for holidaymakers and partygoers, but as the high season draws to an end, the pace changes and a sense of calm returns.

Photo: Olof Segerberg, Destination Gotland

Visitors and locals appreciate the slower, quieter way of life in autumn, as well as the hyper-local culinary scene. As it turns out, the island is ideal for gourmet endeavours with world-class produce. Here, innovative cuisine, creative food entrepreneurs and delicious ingredients tempt around every bend.

Thanks to its location, Gotland has a history as a vibrant trading hub, with the locals developing a fondness for exotic ingredients such as saffron – as seen in the popular saffron pancake, served with whipped cream and strawberry jam. The island also has a strong fishing tradition and delicious seafood plays a central role, while the local lamb is nothing but outstanding. Whereas in spring, asparagus and Ramson wood garlic (ramslök) are a sure hit, in autumn, the Gotland truffles (black Burgundy truffle) take centre stage.

Photo: Olof Segerberg, Destination Gotland

Gotland on a plate

The island is renowned for its top-notch restaurants; for instance Krakas Krog, located in Kräklingbo on the east side of the island. Featured in the prestigious Michelin Guide, Krakas is praised for its seasonal, locally sourced produce, meat from nearby farmers and ingredients from the restaurant’s own garden.

Another renowned restaurant is the family-owned smokehouse Katthammarsvik Rökeri, on the east coast of the island, which specialises in fish and prawns smoked on-site. It serves up freshly-caught delicacies year-round and you can even create your own plate of seafood.

Photo: Joel Nilsson

In Visby, try authentic, tasty dishes at Bakfickan; for instance, the signature fish soup with aioli or the pickled herring with sour cream. Lilla Bjers, just south of Visby, reinterprets classic Gotland flavours in innovative ways. And Krusmyntagården, north of Visby, is popular too. Set in an idyllic location overlooking the sea, it features a herb garden where you can buy your favourite spices to take home.

Eco-minded surf hub Surflogiet, located in Tofta, is keen to share and educate guests about the culinary heritage of the region. Hosting beachside stays, including SUP, windsurfing and kitesurfing, Surflogiet also invites its guests to sample food cooked with locally sourced ingredients, depending on season.

Photo: Tina Axelsson, imagebank.sweden.se

And Gotland in a glass

It may come as a surprise that one of Sweden’s oldest vineyards is located here. Established in 1999, Gute Vineyard is based in Hablingbo in the southern part of the island, surrounded by open landscapes and countryside roads. Vines grow close to the sea, and the local limestone soil, in combination with the many hours of sun, ensure good conditions for viticulture. Join a tour, to get up close to the production, enjoy a tasty meal at Restaurang Vingården on-site, or stay the night at the estate’s own hotel – right next to the vineyard.

Photo: Moaz Altawill / Surflogiet Gotland

On the western coast of Gotland, Långmyre Winery in Burgsvik integrates Italian wine-making knowledge with Swedish awareness. This location also benefits from the mild maritime climate and sandy soils, again ideal for grape cultivation. Långmyre was established in 2018 and similarly to Gute Vineyard, it focuses on organic farming methods.

Beer lovers will find plenty of local brews too, to pair with their Gotlandic food. In fact, Gotland has the highest concentration of breweries in Sweden. One long-standing popular brewery is Gotlands Bryggeri, which produces the classic Wisby Stout. Also check out small brewery Snausarve Gårdsbryggeri, founded in 2017, and its newly released Snausarve Brown Ale with locally grown hemp seeds. And Brygghuset in Visby offers more than 100 different beers, many local. Gotland even has its own beer style: Gotlandsdricka is a smoky-sweet, juniper-flavoured farmhouse ale, brewed on the island for centuries.

Photo: Simon Paulin, imagebank.sweden.se

Three gastro festivals on the island

This autumn, three not-to-be-missed culinary festivals await. First up is Gotland’s Harvest Festival (Gotlands Skördefestival), which takes place 5-6 September. It features food producers, animals and machines, and visitors can take part in workshops too. This is where to experience the scents, tastes and traditions of Gotland – from farm to table.

A few weeks later, 25-27 September, Gotland Taste Festival brings together local producers, chefs and food lovers for a weekend of engaging talks and tastings at the food market in Visby, as well as farm shops and restaurants across the island.

Gotland’s Truffle Festival (Gotlands Tryffelfestival), hosted 13-15 November, concludes Gotland’s Truffle Month. The weekend-long festival is dedicated to the island’s black gold, the Gotland truffle, and visitors can immerse themselves in the world of truffles with expert-led seminars, a truffle market, truffle hunts, a truffle ceremony and truffle menus at many restaurants.

Photo: Destination Gotland

Authors, painters and Murder in Sweden

The island’s barren landscape and sheer light have inspired artists, writers and performers for centuries. Gotland has served as the backdrop for film productions such as the original Pippi Longstocking series, the French drama Bergman Island, which was praised by The New York Times, and the works of legendary director Ingmar Bergman.

Photo: Moaz Altawill / Surflogiet Gotland

Hit Swedish crime drama Maria Wern (known as Murder in Sweden internationally) is set here. The series is based on best-selling novels by Anna Jansson, who was born in Visby, and follows a detective who relocates from Stockholm to Gotland after her husband’s death. Also set on the island is the German-Swedish co-production The Inspector and the Sea (Der Kommissar und das Meer), based on Mari Jungstedt’s novels. It follows a German police inspector navigating murders in Gotland.

Photo: Moaz Altawill / Surflogiet Gotland

The island is also where Lars Jonsson, one of the world’s foremost painters of birds and nature, lives and works. His paintings are displayed at Museum Lars Jonsson in Vamlingbo Rectory, one of Gotland’s top attractions with a well-liked restaurant, a lush garden and a garden shop – great for a day trip, by the way. Authors Håkan Nesser and Maria Grund also live here, and the list continues.

Photo: Krakas Krog

Explore the natural wonders of Gotland

Apart from a fabulous gastronomic scene and inspirational settings for creatives, Gotland offers plenty of outdoor activities, with its more than 100 nature reserves. As Gotland is largely flat, it is a dream destination for cyclists, and hiking is another popular activity. For instance, the 30-kilometre Klintkustleden Trail is considered one of the most scenic coastal hikes in the country, linking six nature reserves along the island’s northwest coast – via dramatic cliffs with sweeping views of the Baltic Sea, through ancient forests and past old fishing villages. And Jungfrun, Gotland’s tallest sea stack, is situated along the trail.

Just north of Gotland lies the small island Gotska Sandön, well-worth a visit. Only eight kilometres long and five kilometres wide, almost the entire island is a nature reserve with white sandy beaches, rolling dunes and clear water. Uninhabited, this is natural beauty at its purest.

Photo: Olof Segerberg, Destination Gotland

Culinary events in Gotland:

5-6 September
Gotland’s Harvest Festival
Location: Gotland Grönt Centrum in Roma, Gotland
gotlandsskordefestival.se

25-27 September
Gotland Taste Festival
Location: various places throughout Visby and Gotland
gotland.com/gotland-taste-festival

13-15 November
Gotland Truffle Festival
Location: various places throughout Visby and Gotland
gotlandstryffelfestival.se

Facts about Gotland:
• Sweden’s largest island with an area of 3,140 square kilometres.
• The Hanseatic town of Visby is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as the best-preserved fortified commercial city in northern Europe.
• The island has 92 medieval churches from the 12th to 15th centuries.
• It features 800 km of coastline, ideal for beach holidays and exploration.

How to get there:
Ferries operate year-round from Nynäshamn and Oskarshamn to Gotland, and the journey from the mainland takes around three hours. There are also several guest harbours around the island. A number of airlines also fly to Gotland, with flight time as short as 30 minutes.

For more information on what to see and do, check out destinationgotland.se and visitsweden.com