Karhu-Kuusamo: The bear watcher of Kuusamo
By John Weston | Photos: Pekka Hänninen
Bears roam the forest near Finland’s eastern border, and thanks to one man’s lifelong fascination, you can safely watch them in their natural habitat.
Pekka Hänninen grew up in Kuusamo with bear stories passed down like family heirlooms. One tale stuck: “In the 1950s, a bear killed our entire herd — five cows in one night,” he recalls. “It terrified me as a child. But I’ve spent a lifetime learning not to fear them.”
Today, he runs Karhu-Kuusamo, Finland’s northernmost bear watching centre, set deep in boreal forest just two kilometres from the Russian border. Between May and September, 30 to 40 different bears pass through the site; solitary males, mothers with cubs, old females with torn ears and careful steps. Visitors watch from purpose-built cabins, dry and warm in the northern twilight. “You must do this work with heart,” says Pekka. “You have to respect the bears. They’re wild. That’s how it should stay.”
Over the years, Pekka has come to recognise many individual bears. “One of our first was a three-year-old female we called Hittavainen,” he says. “She’s been back every year since 2007. 16 cubs. We trust each other, I think.”
Sightings are frequent, especially in the long light of midsummer and early autumn. A ‘bear guarantee’ means that guests can return another day for free if no bears appear, though this is seldom the case. Around 2,000 people visit each year. Many are photographers or nature writers. And evenings often bring a slow procession of those other visitors – paws on moss, black eyes at the tree line, heavy breaths steaming in the air.
The remote appeal of Kuusamo
Karhu-Kuusamo stands near Kuntilampi, or ‘Bear Pond’ – a still, shallow lake ringed with pines and framed by sky. Moose wade in its waters. Cranes and goldeneyes pass overhead. The forest here is quiet and vast.
The cabins are simple but snug, made to suit their surroundings. “People are happy with them,” says Pekka. Most have lake views. Bears often pass just outside, unaware or unconcerned. Bird hides and boardwalks allow for quiet exploration during the day.
For many visitors, seeing a bear up close – not in a zoo, not behind glass – is unforgettable. They arrive wary, even anxious. But that changes. “They’re not what people think,” says Pekka. “They’re watchful. Quiet. Mostly curious. Once people see that, they stop being afraid.”
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