Laanilan Kievari: Seasons on a plate in Finnish Lapland
By John Weston | Photos: Laanilan Kievari
Tucked between the fells of Saariselkä and the edge of Finland’s oldest national park, Laanilan Kievari serves wild game, freshwater fish and foraged mushrooms in a setting shaped by weather, woodsmoke and the rhythm of the seasons.
Founded 13 years ago by Samuli Ruotsalainen and his parents, the restaurant reflects the Karelian heritage of his mother, Riitta, who served as head chef until 2021 – now fused with the precision and experience of Samuli’s training in French cuisine.
The menu follows the landscape. In summer, herring and herbs appear beside creamy sauces and tangy pickles. Autumn brings forest mushrooms picked by the owners and berries bought from locals. Elk cheek and sautéed reindeer come with buttery mash and sharp pickled cucumber. Hand-cut tartare is served ringed with green spruce oil, crowned by an egg yolk and scattered with local herbs.
Nothing is flashy, but each element lands cleanly and confidently, with restraint. Lunch, often salmon soup or stew, includes thick slices of house-baked rye bread and careful seasoning. The extensive wine list is pared back for the summer and includes both small producers and famous names like Romanée-Conti and Vega Sicilia.
Built of timber and filled with handmade details, Laanilan Kievari is closer in spirit to a country house than a commercial restaurant. Its atmosphere is relaxed and unhurried. Guests arrive wrapped in towels from the sauna next door or step in from the snow on skis and snowshoes, pausing on clear nights to marvel at the northern lights shimmering overhead.
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