The Polaria centre, which is designed to look like blocks of ice pushed ashore by the rough Barents Sea, is hard to miss when walking around in the city of Tromsø. Inside, four seals, named Bella, Mai San, Loffen and Lyra, play around in the arctic aquarium next to a range of Arctic fish species. “Polaria has exchanged predators like orcas, sharks, bears, wolves and eagles with curious human spectators from near and far. They all fall in love with the seals’ calm temper and intelligent nature. According to my colleagues in the aquarium, the seals are far smarter than their dogs at home.