There can be few places that Rachel Khoo has neither visited nor called home. The cook, best-selling cookbook author and TV presenter was born in England to an Austrian mother and a Malaysian father. By way of France and Germany, she settled in Sweden several years ago, falling quickly in love with her new surroundings and its rich culinary culture.

For such a well-seasoned traveller, adjusting to a new Swedish environment was something that Khoo, surely, took comfortably in her stride. “The hardest adjustment for me, and the one that I still struggle with a bit, is winter,” she admits.

With Sweden having fallen into its colder months by now, Khoo will need to wait a while for nature to reawaken. “The darkness can be particularly challenging,” she says. “I travel to London almost every month, and when I go in February it feels like a mini holiday to see daffodils starting to bloom in the parks.”

A home away from Stockholm

The renowned cook married a Swede some years ago and this is where she is now bringing up her three children. Khoo has recently transferred to her new base, about an hour north of Malmö, after residing in the capital for years. “Living in a seaside village, it’s a special treat to enjoy the beach before crowds of holidaymakers arrive,” she says, “It feels like a peaceful, private escape, and the calm before the summer bustle is magical. The area is incredibly picturesque, with colourful beach huts lining the shoreline. While it’s a popular summer destination for people from Stockholm, it still maintains a vibrant, year-round community life.”

Khoo spent her early Stockholm years in Hornstull, before moving further out into the suburbs. “It was a charming neighbourhood with lots of apple trees,” says Khoo of her previous suburban base. “I lived in an English-style terrace house built at the turn of the 20^th century. These houses are painted in soft pastel tones, giving the area a quaint atmosphere.”

Stockholm and southern Sweden formed the frequent backdrop to Khoo’s My Swedish Kitchen series, which was first aired by Food Network in 2019. It saw her travelling to a plethora of gastronomic hotspots and followed the publication of The Little Swedish Kitchen, Khoo’s book featuring over 100 recipes.

“It was an incredible experience,” says Khoo of filming the series. “With all my cooking shows, I’m deeply involved in both the research and the production processes. It was essential for me to highlight a diverse range of passionate food producers, cooks and restauranteurs.”

The Swedish flour power

Immersing herself in both projects also allowed Khoo to unearth a variety of local ingredients, including the hearty flours used in baking. “These flours create some incredible breads, not to mention the iconic knäckebröd,” she muses. “I always miss Swedish crackers when I’m abroad. If I have space in my suitcase and I’m away for a while, I make sure to bring a few packets with me.”

Khoo may well have tucked some into her luggage a few months ago as she jetted down under to film another series of The Great Australian Bake Off. When asked if it is discombobulating to swap Sweden for Sydney, she exclaims “It definitely is! But it’s also wonderful.”

“Going in August as the Swedish summer is winding down and Sydney’s spring is just beginning feels like the best of both worlds,” Khoo continues. “Spring in Sydney is like a perfect Swedish summer, so it feels like I’m getting an extended summer, which is such a treat.”

Alongside international filming commitments, Khoo’s other projects include curating Les Petits Pleasures, a Substack launched earlier this year.  “I’ve been really enjoying the direct connection it gives me with readers,” she says. “It feels a bit like blogging did back in the 2000s, which is how I first got into recipe writing. It has been wonderful to return to that more personal way of sharing content.”

France and Sweden have a cultural affinity

Khoo rose to fame in Paris, where she ran a restaurant in her tiny Belleville apartment. The phenomenon inspired a BBC television series, The Little Paris Kitchen: Cooking with Rachel Khoo, and a book titled The Little Paris Kitchen, published in 2012.

“I’d say French culture has a lot in common with Swedish culture, especially when it comes to the work-life balance,” Khoo theorises. “Both cultures value the importance of enjoying life beyond work, though nothing beats the Scandinavian approach to family life. The emphasis on family time and the generous parental leave policies really set it apart and create strong foundations for a balanced life.”

Swedish food is finding new fans

Sweden might have some ground to cover before its culinary reputation catches up with that of France, but Khoo has noticed a growing worldwide awareness of Swedish gastronomy over the past decade or so. She believes this is partly thanks to the work of Magnus Nilsson, whose restaurant Fäviken enthralled a steady stream of international guests from the late 2000s until its closure around half a decade back.

In the summer of 2012, Khoo completed a two-week stage at the Jämtland destination. “Magnus has written extensively about the history and cultural significance of Swedish cuisine,” she explains. “Meanwhile, the global popularity of fika has helped bring Swedish baking to the international stage.”

Interest in Swedish cuisine extends all the way to Singapore, where Khoo’s relatives made a special trip to a newly opened IKEA to try its meatballs. “What really surprised me was when my book was translated into Japanese,” she says. “My TV show also aired on one of Japan’s national channels, and I even did a press tour there, hosting events, including one at the Swedish Embassy. It has been incredible to see enthusiasm for Swedish cuisine in such a different part of the world.”

Now a rightful (if unofficial) Swedish food ambassador, Khoo is determined to fly a flag for the culinary culture of her adopted homeland. Khoo may be frequently gallivanting to other corners of the globe, but this adventurer can always find her way back to Sweden’s quiet coastline.

Cardamom bun bombe

Serves 6-8

Vegetarian

Prep time: 30 mins

Cooking time: 10 mins

Freezing time: 4 hours

Equipment: Medium sized bowl (capacity 1.5 litres)

If you happen to have day-old, slightly stale buns lying around, this is a good way of using them up. I’ve also made this dessert using bought buns when I’ve been short of time and need a quick and easy dessert for a dinner party.

INGREDIENTS

200g golden or date syrup

200g caster sugar

2 tsp ground cardamom

½ tsp fine sea salt

300ml double cream

2 litres good-quality vanilla ice cream

12-14 shop bought cardamom or cinnamon buns

RECIPE

Start by making a caramel. Pour the syrup into a large, heavy-based pan, followed by the sugar, cardamom and salt. Place on a hot heat. Swirl the pot around every minute or so to help incorporate the sugar. Once the caramel starts to simmer, cook for a further 5 minutes or until a dark golden brown. Take off the heat. Gradually incorporate the cream – be careful, as the mixture will splutter and rise. Fill a bowl with water and ice, place the caramel pot on top of the ice and leave to cool.

Take the ice cream out of the freezer and put into the fridge to soften slightly.

Line your medium-sized bowl with cling film, leaving some excess to fold over the top to cover. Cut the cardamom buns in half and place some of them cut side down in the bowl, so the bowl sides are fully covered.

Beat the softened ice cream and swirl in a third of the cooled caramel. Set aside the rest for serving. Spoon the ice cream into the bowl and press it down. Cover the ice cream with the remainder of the bun halves. Wrap with the excess cling film and freeze for at least 4 hours.

To serve, take the bombe out of the freezer 15 minutes before serving. Open up the cling film at the top, place a serving plate over the bowl and turn upside down. Remove the cling film and leave to thaw slightly. Right before serving, pour over the remainder of the caramel sauce.

Top tips: Use a knife run under hot water to cut the bombe. Cardamom can be replaced with other spices, such as cinnamon, ground ginger and allspice.

The Little Swedish Kitchen by Rachel Khoo is published by Penguin Michael Joseph, priced £20. Photography (c) David Loftus.

White chocolate and berry coconut mountains (kokostoppar)

Makes 20

Vegetarian/Gluten Free

Prep time: 20 mins

Baking time: 30-35 mins

Traditionally these coconut treats are densely packed just with coconut, but upon burning half my coconut while toasting it I ended up improvising with sesame seeds and ground almonds, only to discover how delicious these nutty additions are. The berries on top lend a bit of tartness, which balances the sweetness from the white chocolate and makes for a pretty little pink peak.

INGREDIENTS

100g golden caster sugar

½ tsp fine sea salt

Zest of 1 lemon

120g butter

200g desiccated coconut

150g sesame seeds

50g ground almonds

3 medium eggs

350g white chocolate

125g lingonberries or redcurrants

RECIPE

Preheat the oven to 200°C/fan 180°C/gas 6.

Put the sugar, salt, lemon zest and butter into a saucepan and melt over a medium heat. Set aside.

Pour the coconut on to a large tray lined with baking paper and place in the oven for 5 minutes or until fairly well toasted. Keep a close watch, and stir the coconut occasionally to toast it evenly. When the coconut is ready, take out of the oven and pour into a large bowl with the sesame seeds and ground almonds. Mix together, then pour in the melted butter and mix again. Add the eggs, then stir together until everything is well combined. Leave to cool slightly.

Line a baking tray with baking paper. Form the mixture into 20 small pyramids (about 4cm high and 5cm in diameter) and set on the lined tray. Place in the oven and bake for 20–25 minutes or until slightly golden on the peaks and firm to the touch. Remove from the oven and leave to cool on a wire rack while melting the chocolate.

Break up the chocolate and put into a small heatproof bowl over a saucepan of simmering water, ensuring the bottom of the bowl doesn’t touch the water. Leave to melt, stirring occasionally. Once the chocolate has melted, dip the cakes into it and top each one with 3–4 berries of your choice.

Top tips: Dip in chocolate while the macaroons are still warm, as the chocolate will run down them better. White chocolate can be replaced with dark or totally omitted if you want to keep it simple.

Get ahead: These keep for several days in an airtight container.

The Little Swedish Kitchen by Rachel Khoo is published by Penguin Michael Joseph, priced £20. Photography (c) David Loftus.

To follow Rachel Khoo’s culinary adventures, check out her website and social media.

www.rachelkhoo.com

Substack: rachelkhoo.substack.com
Facebook: Rachel Khoo
Instagram: @rachelkhooks