Hotel Inger: A seaside retreat in Denmark’s northernmost village
By Lena Hunter | Photos: Hotel Inger
In recent years, Denmark’s traditional seaside inns have surged in popularity, thanks to the wildly popular historical drama Badehotellet. The TV series is set close to Skagen – Denmark’s northernmost town – where the Kattegat Sea and the Skagerrak Strait meet. But the history that the show brings to life isn’t lost: in Hulsig, 13 kilometres south of Skagen, lies Hotel Inger – a family-run inn, due to celebrate its 75th anniversary next year. The seaside retreat is a time-warp to the 1970s.
“People come here for the peace. We’re close to Hulsig beach, Kandestederne beach and the migrating sand dunes at Råbjerg Mile. Both are picture-perfect,” says Anne Christine Nielsen, who runs the hotel together with her mother Else. Though Hotel Inger is just nine minutes from Skagen by train, it’s startlingly quiet – nestled in a serene pocket of nature.
“The evenings here are magical. Last night, a couple of guests ate dinner with us, then took a cold bottle of white wine up to the sand dunes to watch the sunset,” says Else. “We also get a lot of cyclists who are here to bike the coastal tracks, and bird-spotters who come for the guided walks.”
Else and Anne Christine are second and third-generation family of Inger Nielsen, who founded the hotel in 1948. “Inger grew up working at traditional coastal hotels and dreamt of starting her own – somewhere down-to-earth, with no snobbery. She started serving coffee and good Danish food in the garden and it became a local favourite. We run the place with respect for that vision,” explains Else.
Today, a few things have been modernised. “The wine glasses are three times the size!” say the pair, flashing identical smiles. “But we don’t throw away, we repair.” In that vein, heritage furniture has been reupholstered, while new interior features in the hotel’s 20 rooms are integrated with original 1970s design.
Meanwhile, Hotel Inger’s kitchen has remained a word-of-mouth sensation – open for lunch and dinner visitors as well as hotel guests. “We’re famous for our plaice, fishcakes, pork roast and Inger’s Kringle – a type of sweet, spiced Danish pastry with hazelnuts and raisins,” says Anne Christine. Else even runs popular fried-eel nights that give diners the chance to try a forgotten Danish classic. There’s no affectation here. From the unspoiled coastline and stunning sunsets to the homely rooms and delicious cooking – Hotel Inger is as authentic as it gets.
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