Malin Norman: From shabby dive bars to world-class beer in Philadelphia
By Malin Norman | Photos: Fermentery Form
Apart from the famous Rocky Steps and Philly cheese steaks, what does Philadelphia have to offer? Plenty, I found out during a visit in April: trendy taprooms, authentic dive bars, and world-class mixed fermentation beer.
Having only visited Philadelphia briefly years ago, I was keen to explore more together with some beer colleagues. The breweries and taprooms in the vibrant Fishtown area turned out to be a hit, for instance Yards Brewing and Love City Brewing. We also went to Evil Genius Beer Company where, unbeknownst to us, a speed dating event was taking place, with regular buzzers going off to indicate that it was time to swap. We didn’t take part in the speed dating, by the way, only drank tasty beers.

The most memorable experiences were probably the city’s shabby dive bars though. In El Bar, which is located under an elevated rail track, we were handed cans of Pabst Blue Ribbon (called PBR) and Love City’s Unity IPA, but no glass in sight. Like typical dive bars, it’s cash-only. A bunch of chatty locals were playing pool whilst drinking boilermakers, a beer accompanied by a shot of whisky. And a cat casually walked in from the street, it’s unclear if it lived there or just paid a visit. I would go back there, any time.
Another dive bar, Dirty Franks, was the only item on one of my friend’s to-do list whilst in town. Squeezed around a small table, we had countless cans of PBR and Hamm’s Beer, easy-going American lagers, a far cry from trendy Hazy IPAs. What we chatted about? Whether the waitress really said that she was 60, although she didn’t look a day over 35. And that local guy, who was wearing a t-shirt with “If found please return to” followed by the bar’s address. Proper local vibes, is what you get. Isn’t that what we’re looking for, when exploring a new city?

Another unforgettable place was Fermentery Form in West Kensington. This small artisan brewery, located in an alley and with no sign indicating it’s there, produces elegant mixed fermentation beers that are out of this world. Sitting at simple tables next to a pyramid of oak barrels, we enjoyed some of the city’s best beers. Outstanding, refreshing, inspiring.
My main reason for being in Philadelphia was judging the World Beer Cup final, and many world-class beers were evaluated and given medals, but more on that another time.

Photo: Fermentery Form


