MS Fæmund II: A boat ride to the heart of the Norwegian wilderness

Famed for its dramatic fjords and iconic hiking routes, Norway still hides a few secrets. One of them lies in the heart of the country’s southeastern wilderness: Lake Femunden and its surrounding national park. Here, in an untouched landscape far from the Instagram crowds, Norwegians themselves go to escape. At the centre of it all, the historic MS Fæmund II continues to glide across the lake, just as it has done since 1905. This is the authentic Norway – quiet, raw, and real.

MS Fæmund II is not just a vessel, it’s a time capsule. Built in 1905 and still operating with many of its original components, the boat has transitioned from an industrial lifeline carrying timber and goods across Femunden, Norway’s second largest lake, to a peaceful ferry carrying hikers, anglers, and nature lovers into the wilderness.

“It’s not a crowded experience here,” says Svend-Andreas Schie, captain on Fæmund II. “Most of our passengers are Norwegians, and the route has been kind of their secret. You come here to get away from the noise – not to stand in line behind busloads of tourists. It’s the real deal.”

While international visitors often head to the Lofoten Islands or the western fjords, the Femund region lies just outside the spotlight – yet its appeal lies exactly in its secret splendour. Departing from Synnervika, MS Fæmund II criss-crosses the lake, delivering guests into Femundsmarka National Park, a pristine expanse of forest, mountain, and open sky. There are no curated experiences here, no fences or food stalls – just nature, as it has always been.

Norway’s backyard escape

The Femund region is sometimes referred to as “the backyard of Norway,” not because it is secondary but because it feels like home, especially for those who know where to look.

“This is an area where you don’t need a guide to point out the view,” says Schie. “We just bring people into nature. After that, they do what they want; hike, fish, find a quiet cabin, or just breathe.”

Indeed, the region is laced with trails and dotted with both serviced and unstaffed cabins, many of them open to hikers for free or at minimal cost (the cabins, known as hytter, can be found and booked through dnt.no). Locals make use of them for weekend adventures, often combining a boat ride on Fæmund II with a hike between cabins or a few days fishing for trout and whitefish.

Passengers often disembark at Røa, a popular entry point into the national park, or continue to Elgå, a small lakeside village where reindeer wander between houses and the pace of life slows to a near stop. The boat stops in six locations before returning and making the same stops back.

Femundsmarka National Park offers travellers all the beauty of the Norwegian wilderness.

A day aboard MS Fæmund II

While most people use the boat to access the untouched nature of the area, some also choose to do a day trip around the 60-kilometre-long lake. Once a week, the trip is extended with a small cruise to Buvika, and guests are joined by a guide who provides insights, a great way to enjoy the area for those inexperienced with hiking.

Onboard the boat, passengers can enjoy a nostalgic journey which, despite upgrades, retains much of its original charm. The wooden interior and metal fittings remain largely untouched, offering a sense of place and history. The rhythmic hum of the engine and the gentle sway of the boat create a meditative atmosphere, allowing travellers to disconnect from the hustle of modern life and reconnect with nature.

“We sail the same route that we’ve sailed for over a hundred years,” Schie explains. “And when you’re on board, you really feel that. You hear the old engine, and you feel the vibration on the floor. It’s part of the experience.”

Real food, real wilderness

Onboard MS Fæmund II, a small café offers local delicacies such as smoked sik, traditional cured meats, cheeses, and Fæmund Pils, a locally brewed beer named after the boat itself. However, passengers are also welcome to bring their own food, and many do – enjoying a packed lunch on deck with nothing but water, sky, and fells in sight.
“The boat connects people with nature,” says Schie. “And, the nature we have here is untouched. You can get off the boat, walk into the forest, and be completely alone.

For international travellers looking for an authentic experience far from the beaten track, Femund offers exactly that – a chance to explore Norway not through postcards or travel ads, but on the ground (and water), the way locals do.

“I think that’s what makes this place special,” Schie says. “It hasn’t been made for tourists. It’s still just nature. And the boat, well, it brings you there.”

About Fæmundruta

About Fæmundruta
• M/S Fæmund II has been in operation since 1905.
• It connects six charming locations along Lake Femunden, Norway’s third-largest lake.
• The route offers easy access to the wild landscapes of Femundsmarka National Park.
• Season: summer months (June to September).
• The boat departs from Synnervika at 9am and returns at 3pm, Monday through Friday and Sunday.
• On Saturdays, the boat offers a mini cruise to Buvika, returning at 5.15pm.
To check the full schedule and book tickets online, visit: femund.no For questions, contact: marked@femund.no