Delicious meals at the grocery
TEXT: MALIN NORMAN | PHOTOS © SPECERIET
Around the back of Michelin-star restaurant Gastrologik, awaits another gastronomic discovery. Simpler and more accessible, yet the modern venue Speceriet is nothing short of a fabulous culinary experience.
Some seven years ago, Jacob Holmström and Anton Bjuhr opened their first restaurant serving contemporary Scandinavian food. With impressive experience from top restaurants such as L’Astrance and Pierre Gagnaire, the young chefs brought heaps of knowledge and ambition to their brainchild and, soon after its opening, Gastrologik was awarded one star in the Michelin guide and is now ranked among the best restaurants in Scandinavia.
Located next door was an empty venue, and the owners decided to open a small shop selling high-quality produce such as rare cuts of meat and fresh seafood. Due to its popularity, the shop was transformed into a small restaurant, at the back of Gastrologik. “The idea was to offer a simpler and more accessible experience,” explains Holmström about the concept of Speceriet, which means ‘the grocery’. “Our customers appreciate the use of small-scale and local produce and it has become a fantastic addition to Gastrologik.” Also, Speceriet has received plenty of attention in the press, praised in both the Washington Post and the New York Times, for instance, as well as being awarded the prestigious Gulddraken (the golden dragon) by Dagens Nyheter.
Whilst Gastrologik offers an elaborate taster menu based around local and flavoursome ingredients, at Speceriet, there are no starters or main courses but instead customers can mix, share and socialise around the communal tables. According to Holmström, Speceriet works according to the seasons and its local produce, and offers a modern concept that attracts both locals from the neighbourhood and international visitors alike: “what we offer is simple, affordable and damn tasty!”
The ambitious owners are continuously developing both their venues. In September, Speceriet was visited by celebrated British chef Calum Franklin of Holborn Dining Room in London, who during the PIEtacular Night, was showcasing some of his favourite pies. And for the past few years, Holmström’s father, who is also a chef and has a passion for Swedish culinary traditions, regularly pays a visit and prepares a classic goose dinner, a typical southern Swedish tradition not to be missed.
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