No-fuss seafood in memorable settings
TEXT: SIGNE HANSEN | PHOTOS © THE FAT PIKE
Set in a warehouse from the early 20th Century, the restaurant The Fat Pike combines a laidback atmosphere with tasty and inspiring seafood dishes. The no-fuss restaurant is located just a mile from Copenhagen City Hall.
The neon sign on the rough walls outside The Fat Pike welcomes guests into a seafood restaurant that is anything but traditional. Once a warehouse for the supermarket chain Coop, the restaurant building used to contain a myriad of goods – from Kenyan coffee to classic Danish design furniture. The coffee and the Danish furniture are still present but in a very different setting.
Established and owned by Torben Klitbo, the founder of Cofoco, The Fat Pike was created in March 2018, with an ambition to present all the best of Danish seafood in a simple, honest and inspiring way. In short, Klitbo wanted his latest restaurant to put an end to the idea that fish and seafood are equal to small portions, starched napkins and highbrow waiters.
“Our approach to seafood is very unpretentious and genuine. We don’t care too much about the etiquette. What we really care about is the freshness of our food – and of course, we care about our guests feeling happy and at ease,” Klitbo says.
‘Mr Value for Money’
As the founder of Cofoco, a restaurant franchise which, when Klitbo sold the company, consisted of around twenty restaurants, Klitbo is known in all of Copenhagen as ‘Mr Value for Money’. With restaurants such as Höst and Llama, both famous for their spectacular interior design and affordable, high-quality food, amongst his previous successes, Klitbo’s aim has always been to make memorable dining experiences accessible for everybody; The Fat Pike is no exception.
Though The Fat Pike’s kitchen is based on Nordic ingredients and philosophy, the head chef, Israel Karasik, is American. Karasik has been cooking seafood in kitchens all along the east coast of the United States – from New England and New York to Florida. At The Fat Pike, his innovative and informal take on food is reflected in the generous servings of oysters, clams, lobsters and fish from the Danish waters. “You have the clue for the name of the restaurant in our servings – the belly of the pike is well-filled,” jokes Klitbo.
A cocktail for your oyster – why not?
The Fat Pike’s unpretentious concept also shines through in its drinks selection. There is no French Chablis to accompany the oysters; the classic wines typically found in seafood restaurants have been replaced with an innovative and creative drinks list. On it, guests will find Spanish and Latin American wines, wines with strong conceptual labels, as well as cocktails and Danish craft beer from small breweries.
“We don’t try to influence your preferences when it comes to the food/drinks pairing. If you just love to have a beer or a cocktail to go along with your tuna tartare, or a glass of red wine for your turbot instead of a white, then you have to have that! Because we would rather have happy guests than conform to some fixed idea about how things ought to be. We only recommend that your glass isn’t empty,” Klitbo says with a smile.
Indeed, The Fat Pike aims to make guests feel at home in every way. This is also reflected in the interior of the old warehouse, which, with an industrial design combined with naval items and raw materials, creates a relaxed and urban atmosphere. In short – if you are looking for an edgy seafood experience a world away from the classic tourist spots, The Fat Pike is the place to go.
The Fat Pike Restaurant
Njalsgade 19 D, Copenhagen S
Open Monday-Saturday (Sunday closed)
Book a table on food8.dk/the-fat-pike