The ‘it’ ring of Copenhagen handmade jewellery by MIELKO

By Lena Hunter | Photos: MIELKO JEWELLERY

You heard it here first: Charlotte Mielko’s eponymous Copenhagen jewellery label is one of the city’s best-kept luxury secrets.

MIELKO’s unique collections of rings, bracelets and necklaces pay homage to celestial bodies – moons, asteroids, planets… and, in fact, borrow some mystique from their Elysian namesakes.

Though each piece draws on our age-old reverence for the heavens, Mielko’s work is far from overstated. Melding bold lines with delicate details, MIELKO jewellery enthralls without overstepping, exuding a quiet opulence that has drawn a close cult following from the local fashion community.

The Saturn ring

“I made the Saturn ring 23 years ago,” explains Mielko. “A friend’s silver ring had caught my eye when I was working in fashion design and living in Paris. It was beautiful. I wanted to make something of my own, from the heart.”

The ring quickly drew the attention of designers and models. Formed of two bands locked together by a small loop, it’s heavy and tactile – a little rock and roll – and elegantly simple.

Through word of mouth, the design spread. Birgitte Raben, of Rabens Salon, has a Saturn ring. Italian designer Angela Missoni, too. “It’s beautiful for men and women,” says Mielko. “It’s very meditative and holistic.”

The ‘it’ ring of Copenhagen handmade jewellery by MIELKO

Left: Saturn Ring, 11mm, 18 carat gold, 42,000 DKK. Right: Saturn Light bracelet in silver from 7,300 DKK.

An expanding universe

MIELKO’s collections are little universes. After Saturn came pieces in gold, silver, black diamond, opulent tourmaline and sapphire. A line of bejewelled pendant earrings called Cassini, sumptuous cuff bracelets, and tear-drop necklaces followed.

“I introduced pearls four years ago. I called that collection Ceres after Saturn’s moon,” says Mielko. “Then came one with coloured gemstones, called Calypso.”

MIELKO was the first in Denmark to use light-blue Japanese Akoya pearls. “They are unbelievably beautiful,” says Mielko. She herself wears the Hydra ring – a slender band clasping a fabulous green tourmaline in gold claws.

From subtle to showcase

Though MIELKO ranges from subtle to showcase, the maison itself is small – and the service uncompromising. “The cornerstones are quality, personal relationships and a tangible process, so every piece is handmade in Denmark,” says Mielko.

Many clients have had their rings for 20 years and come back to add stones or resize – and 2022 anticipates a new constellation of designs. Simply put: “Not one kind of person buys my jewellery. It’s many types of people who want something personal.”