Every year, young and immature wheels of cheese from 67 suppliers from across Scandinavia and Europe enrol at Ulricehamn. The cheeses are waxed and may be ennobled with a certain ingredient or flavour, such as Steffo’s alcohol-infused cheeses, which the Swedes have come to love. Depending on their disposition, the cheeses then spend anything between two weeks and two years reaching their full potential under Wernersson’s watchful eye. “There’s a certain amount of time that you might expect a particular kind of cheese to need to ripen for,” explains Jesper Jakobsen, general manager for Wernersson Denmark.