The ‘it’ ring of Copenhagen handmade jewellery by MIELKO
By Lena Hunter | Photos: MIELKO JEWELLERY
You heard it here first: Charlotte Mielko’s eponymous Copenhagen jewellery label is one of the city’s best-kept luxury secrets.
MIELKO’s unique collections of rings, bracelets and necklaces pay homage to celestial bodies – moons, asteroids, planets… and, in fact, borrow some mystique from their Elysian namesakes.
Though each piece draws on our age-old reverence for the heavens, Mielko’s work is far from overstated. Melding bold lines with delicate details, MIELKO jewellery enthralls without overstepping, exuding a quiet opulence that has drawn a close cult following from the local fashion community.
The Saturn ring
“I made the Saturn ring 23 years ago,” explains Mielko. “A friend’s silver ring had caught my eye when I was working in fashion design and living in Paris. It was beautiful. I wanted to make something of my own, from the heart.”
The ring quickly drew the attention of designers and models. Formed of two bands locked together by a small loop, it’s heavy and tactile – a little rock and roll – and elegantly simple.
Through word of mouth, the design spread. Birgitte Raben, of Rabens Salon, has a Saturn ring. Italian designer Angela Missoni, too. “It’s beautiful for men and women,” says Mielko. “It’s very meditative and holistic.”
An expanding universe
MIELKO’s collections are little universes. After Saturn came pieces in gold, silver, black diamond, opulent tourmaline and sapphire. A line of bejewelled pendant earrings called Cassini, sumptuous cuff bracelets, and tear-drop necklaces followed.
“I introduced pearls four years ago. I called that collection Ceres after Saturn’s moon,” says Mielko. “Then came one with coloured gemstones, called Calypso.”
MIELKO was the first in Denmark to use light-blue Japanese Akoya pearls. “They are unbelievably beautiful,” says Mielko. She herself wears the Hydra ring – a slender band clasping a fabulous green tourmaline in gold claws.
From subtle to showcase
Though MIELKO ranges from subtle to showcase, the maison itself is small – and the service uncompromising. “The cornerstones are quality, personal relationships and a tangible process, so every piece is handmade in Denmark,” says Mielko.
Many clients have had their rings for 20 years and come back to add stones or resize – and 2022 anticipates a new constellation of designs. Simply put: “Not one kind of person buys my jewellery. It’s many types of people who want something personal.”
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